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Tengchong
腾冲与缅甸山水相连,自古就是西南边陲的重要通商口岸和边防重镇,“古代南方丝绸之路”就通过这里进入缅甸。历史上商贾云集、贸易繁荣,首开世界翡翠加工先河,是东南亚珠宝玉石集散地,被喻为“极边第一城”。现在,腾冲境内有国家一类口岸——猴桥,还有滇滩、自治、三岔河等 16 个口岸和通道。

火山地热在腾冲大地上相伴而生,规模之宏大,景观之神奇,为世所罕见,大自然的造化神功,使腾冲成为独树一帜的火山地热国家级风景名胜区。

腾冲境内居住着汉、回、傣、佤、傈僳、阿昌等 25 种民族。全县辖 18 个乡镇, 人口60多万。
Highlights

When we visited (January 2006), Tengchong's Botanical Gardens were a bit of a laugh, being nothing more than a park. There weren't even any botanical names. Perhaps this is being addressed?

Tengchong's ancient Confucian Temple dates back to the Ming Dynasty, and is free for entry, though nowdays it is inhabited by a series of families and is essentially gutted. The stone bridge opposite is perhaps more interesting.

Tengchong Museum will open in 2007. There are only a handful of items currently on display, with the bulk of its 3575 object collection not yet available for public viewing.

Wen Xing Lou, or the "Old City Gate" has been completely rebuilt, though it does retain the style of the original building. It heralds the start of a long stretch of failing tourist-oriented jade shops, which are not worth your time.





On a cultural note, Tengchong's shadow puppets are famous, but performances are rare. If you get the opportunity to see a performance, don't miss it!

Finally, Yu Quan Ye Yue, a possibly historic site or park, now turned commercial development unless you are in the market for an expensive house.

Out Of Town He Shun is a village just outside of town that for generations grew wealthy on cross border trade with Burma, and the countries beyond by sea. 30元 (off season price) buys you entry to six 'attractions', which are mostly rebuilt buildings and/or museums. You don't need to buy a ticket to wander around the town, however, and proud locals may invite you in to their houses for a look. Many contain intricate carvings, antique furniture and a traditional courtyard layout, with seperate stables for the horses that were ridden fifteen days south to Burma. Approximately 100 of these older houses exist, and coins can be seen carved in to the walls of some of them, symbolising wealth returning to the village. Nearby, across the fields are a Theravada-style pagoda and a tower. A minibus to Heshun from Tengchong costs 1.5 or 2元 per person, depending upon distance and season.

Yi Luo is a less commercialised alternative to He Shun, with the same history, many of the same features but no tourist buses. It's accessible as the final (southermost) stop on bus route #2. Its main attractions are:
  • Wen Chang Gong, a fantastic old building open to the public in the morning and the evening. Even when the building's inner compound is locked, the outer courtyard and a pond full of water lillies may be seen. As the main entrance faces north, photographers may have a hard time in the daytime.
  • Shui Ying Temple was formerly located atop the mountain, byut is now more conveniently nestled at its foot. Although primarily Buddhist, there's a confucian shrine above the main temple compound accessible via a flight of stone stairs. A community of nuns tends to the temple, which was under repair early 2006.
  • Yiluo Library. Now divided in to two seperate buildings, the Yiluo Library was once a community center for the families of the town's overseas Chinese. Nowdays its holdings are unremarkable, though its function in the community remains. The 'new' library (closer to the fields) holds books on its upper floor, while the 'old' library, directly opposite, is now bare and retains its function as a meeting place for elder members of the community. They can be seen there relaxing, sipping tea and playing mahjong in the sunny courtyard.




  • A series of industrial kilns can be seen on the road north to Bei Hai, and travellers interested in ceramics or photography may be interested to stop by.


    Environment
    History
    Born in Falkirk, Scotland in 1873, George Forrest was a famous plant explorer who made seven trips to Yunnan in search of botanical specimens for the Royal Botanical Garden, Edinburgh. Forrest died in Tengchong in 1932 during his final and most successful trip to Yunnan, and is buried in the area. Along with Ernest Wilson and Joseph Rock he is credited with discovering many species and had more impact on foreign harbariums than his peers, collecting over 31,000 herbarium specimens. Plants he collected include Rhododendron, camellias, magnolias, Himalayan poppies, lilies, primulas and gentians (including Gentiana sino-ornata).


    Practicalities
    Getting In & Out
    The Tengchong Bus Station is at the south of town and is accessible via the #2 public bus. Frequent services run south to Mangshi and Ruili, as well as northeast to Kunming via Baoshan and Dali. The nearby roundabout lauds the achievements of famous Ming Dynasty traveller and poet Xu Xia Ke, who managed to see more of China in the days of horse and cart than many of us achieve today.


    Getting About
    Tengchong is a very large city, so walking is not always possible. Numerous public buses run, though their routes are confusing and few are useful to tourists. Taxis are unmetered, and trips should be 5元 unless you are travelling out of the city proper. Travelling by bicycle would be ideal, except that no shop seems to offer a hire service.


    Accomodation
    A seemingly endless supply of mid-range hotels offer rooms for 40-50元. Cheaper options are available, though you wont save much.


    Food
    Restaurants
    There seems to be a shortage of sit-down restaurants in the city center, which might be because real estate prices are booming. Move towards the edge of town if you can't find a place to eat. A couple of night markets offer barbequed meat, tofu and vegetable skewers.


    Communications
    A scattering of internet cafes throughout the city offer internet access for 2元 per hour.


    Money
    Tengchong's Bank of China only changes traveller's cheques Monday to Friday, so watch out if you rely on them. Its ATM works 24 hours with both cirrus/maestro and visa cards, however.


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